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Post by chef on May 22, 2005 22:39:42 GMT -5
I just got a Nitro Rustler and I've driven it 3 times. I was having a prob starting it but I remember a guy at the shop putting fuel in the cylinder and pulling engine over without glowplug then reinserting plug and starting the truck. Today the thing was bogging and took a while to get warmed up or burned off excess fuel .Kinda smoky ,but once I revved her out a bit it got clear and screamin'. Is it flooding? Am I wrecking it?It's a new glowplug. I'm in Hope today ,does altitude have anything to do with it?
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Post by Darren on May 24, 2005 12:14:36 GMT -5
Weather does affect the engines. A small bit but from a cold day to a hot day definitly. How much effect altitude affects I don't know but wouldn't be surprised.
Another thing to think about is your next glow plug. Might get a hotter glow plug. Different glow plugs run at different temps.
As long as the truck cleared up quickly I wouldn;'t worry about the smoke to much. Just be careful when starting it. If you have a pullstart, you have to be careful you don;t pull to hard or you will break the spring. It's easy to replace bhut it's a bummer. IO've seen alot of people carry a spare pull start just in case.
If the engine doesn't want to turn over pull the glow plug and then spin it over a few times to clear it out and then put the glow plug back in and try to start it up.
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Post by chef on May 24, 2005 22:28:07 GMT -5
Thanx Darren,
I just bought a new glowplug today so I'll put it in, reset the jets to the basic settings and see what happens.
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Post by Dr. Paint on May 28, 2005 2:27:54 GMT -5
Tuning Top End: Open the main fuel needle (counter clock wise) until your car doesn't rev high at full throttle. Now start leaning (clock wise) the main needle one eight of a turn at the time. Stop leaning when you notice that your engine runs good at top speed.
Tuning the Low End: Tune the low end so that:
a) the engine doesn't load up after sitting at idle for 5 seconds. (if it does load up, lean it)
b) the engine is quick off the line when you accelerate once you had it idle for about 5 seconds.
c) the engine doesn't start to rev slowly while at idel. (if it does start to rev slowly while at idle, richen it)
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Post by Pipeous on May 28, 2005 6:46:04 GMT -5
Seb. I don't mean to argue but an engine should load up after 5 seconds. it should clear out but if it doesn't it will be too lean.
another test for the low end is to pull in after running around for a bit and pinching the fuel line off right where it goes into the carb. the idle should go up slightly, then the engine will die. if the engine dies right away when pinched, it is too lean and it the revs go way up and hold for a bit it is too rich.
also always tune the top end first. that is the main fuel line flow. every adjustment to the top end will change the bottom end as well. so get the top tuned up for top speed. richer is better. can't kill a rich motor but sure can a lean one.
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Post by Dr. Paint on May 28, 2005 12:31:18 GMT -5
that's kool...
I have my RB tuned so that it idles forever but when I go nuts on it during the qualif. or race it barly gets to 220.
I loads up at 10 - 20% throtle but not idle. After it cleares is stays cleared while I drive.
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Post by Dr. Paint on May 28, 2005 12:33:16 GMT -5
Oh here is one for you.
If you come of the run at 230 and your engine stalls within 5 seconds while at idle it is not tuned right. This is a tricky one.
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Post by Pipeous on May 28, 2005 13:24:07 GMT -5
The answer is, follow proper tuning instructions and don't be fooled by thinking temperature is the best method. Temperatures for a proper running engine can vary greatly due to altitudes, barometric pressure, relative humidity, nitro content, oil content etc etc etc your best bet is to always tune the top end first. I tune to get max rpm then richen slightly, then tune the bottom like above. all my motors run great and I rarely ever have a flame out problem and never blow clutch and main bearings. that said, you should also check the glowplug  . exception to the rule is with cvec pipes but we won't go there... |
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Post by chef on May 31, 2005 22:07:46 GMT -5
Pipeous,
Thanx for the info. The next time I have my Rustler out I wil try some of those procedures for tuning. My big problem was trying to set it so that the failsafe would completely kill the engine when out of radio range but not kill it when I hit the brakes hard. Have not worked that out yet. I replied to your thread on the temp guns. Maybe I can call you about them and over the phone I will understand the tuning procedures better.
Thanx again
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Post by Pipeous on Jun 1, 2005 9:44:15 GMT -5
we can hook up and I can show you.
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Post by chef on Jun 1, 2005 17:06:10 GMT -5
Sounds great
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Post by Darren on Jun 1, 2005 17:08:50 GMT -5
Very few people have thier fail safe stop the engine. Most pople have it set for brake.
Personnaly Mine is set for just a lil over half brake power. So if it is on a slick surface it will stay straight, while still slow enough to not break if it hits.
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