Chris
Postin' my way up...
Posts: 94
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Post by Chris on Jul 27, 2005 17:57:38 GMT -5
Hey, im now thinking about upgrading my pede. I'm just looking for some advice as to what parts to get to make my pede like a whole new truck. It's not going to be in competitions or anything, mostly for bashing. Will it be worth it trying to furnish a kind of old 2wd truck?
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Post by mike5721947 on Jul 27, 2005 21:43:10 GMT -5
if you want to be competative at the track you might want to convert your stampede to a rustler. (or even use the body mounts and body for a rustler so the truck is slightly lowered.) a very good part to buy is a RPM wide front bumper for the stampede/rustler. it really saves you front end parts. also if you are still running the stock traxxas 2018 replace it with a stronger servo (lots of people use the hitec 645mg) you might want to widden the truck by using either this method www.ultimatetraxxas.com/stampede.html or the other few methods floating around (the main selling point of this conversion is the need of only one type of arm and its a stock stampede/rustler part.) RPM 5x11 bearing carriers front and rear, are a good investment as the bearings are more widly used and dont break as often as the 5x8 bearings (if you replace the stock bushings) a better esc for bashing is oviously the novak super rooster (bit pricy but you get reverse) the duratrax streak is a forward only esc but its cheaper then the super rooster and can go down to the lowest turn motors that you would want to put in a stampede (and gear correctly) a better motor then the stinger is a must to really have fun with the stampede (i myself use a brushless esc and motor as there is no matenence and its fast.) i used a 19 turn speed gem motor before the brushless system because i stayed with the stock traxxas XL-1 esc that came with the stampede. (yours may have came with the MSC) proline masher 2000 tires are a good all around tire for bashing and do well on the track. thats all i can think of right now but if you have any more questions you can pm me or even talk to me on msn (screenname: mike5721947@hotmail.com) or on aim (screenname: mike5721947@aol.com)
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Chris
Postin' my way up...
Posts: 94
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Post by Chris on Jul 28, 2005 21:30:07 GMT -5
Aaaalright, i've decided to undergo the conversion found at ultimate traxxas. I have one question for anyone also. At the rear i have dual shocks. Would it be better if i just had single shocks in the rear?
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Post by mike5721947 on Jul 28, 2005 22:17:37 GMT -5
im running the stock suspension with a novak ss5800 system (brushless) so double rear shocks arnt really needed. i dont think it would really matter but for help from other stampede owners for shock questions it wont really help with your double shocks as its different. (but for simplicity you might want to switch back to single rear shocks. less problems)
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Chris
Postin' my way up...
Posts: 94
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Post by Chris on Jul 29, 2005 0:36:41 GMT -5
I have another question about lowering the truck. i was curious as to how you can striaghten out the whole a arm area making it almost perpendicular to the wheel. Mine is at about a 70/75 degree angle. I assume this has something to do with the shocks?
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Post by mike5721947 on Jul 29, 2005 23:55:13 GMT -5
the rear just move the bottom mounting position out (there are 4 positions for the ball stud)
the front there are only 2 so move it farther out.
that should help with the arm angles
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Chris
Postin' my way up...
Posts: 94
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Post by Chris on Jul 30, 2005 0:16:44 GMT -5
I just replaced my stub axle carriers and bearings in the rear. I have a question though... Should there be nothing between the inner bearing and the stub axle itself? I ask this because there are small washer-like rings in that space. Maybe its from the old bearings?? I also wondered this because i thought there should be no room between the stub axle pin and the outer bearing? I figured they may be there to remove that space??
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Post by mike5721947 on Jul 30, 2005 13:17:56 GMT -5
it sounds like someone removed the stub axles before you because that sounds backwards. there should be nothing between the stubaxle and the inner bearing and there should be a small washer between the outer bearing and the axle pin. (it keeps the axle pin from grinding away the bearing)
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Chris
Postin' my way up...
Posts: 94
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Post by Chris on Jul 31, 2005 2:47:01 GMT -5
I notice that when you move the shocks outward they become harder to compress and actually absorb shock. Shouldn't the car be able to be lowered and still have properly working shocks?
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Post by mike5721947 on Jul 31, 2005 12:09:51 GMT -5
well do you have any preload spacers on the shock if so jsut remove some to get the shock back to your likeing.
or if you have aftermarket springs on it then you might have to get softer springs.
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